by Cynthia Wands

Au Lapin Agile, located in Montmarte
In October I saw something remarkable at the cabaret of The Agile Rabbit in Paris. (Forgive me, I just loved writing that.) My sister Susan and her husband Robert had gifted me a birthday adventure with them, and it was a dream come true: we stayed in an apartment near the Notre Dame Cathedral, ate fabulous meals, drank champagne, ate chocolate croissants, and saw dear friends. In short, it was a wonderful excursion, one I will treasure always.
But one of the most unexpected gifts, was the experience of watching the faces of the audience at a cabaret located in Montmarte, in a musical revue that was deeply touching.
We had researched some performance venues to visit while we in Paris. Perhaps we would go to the Palais Garnier, Opéra Bastille, (I’ve never been and someday I vow I will go to an opera there), or Les Folies Bergère, and then, just to bedevil Robert, we might go see the Moulin Rouge Paris show. Robert is back on Broadway right now in the musical Moulin Rouge, and had spent the last two years on the road with the show. But Robert had asked to see something more akin to a Parisian evening, and we kept looking.
And then I found a post online about Au Lapin Agile – The Agile Rabbit – a cabaret that has its own place in Paris history. We were looking for something authentic, not a Vegas style show, and this place sounded promising: “Au Lapin Agile is located in the Montmartre neighborhood of Paris and hosts intimate, traditional French performances. The atmosphere is cozy, dimly lit, and focuses on audience participation and classic French “chansons”. The current show, “Songs, Music, Poetry,” features a variety of performers singing old French songs, Parisian melodies, and drinking songs, with the audience encouraged to sing along.” We were intrigued.
And here’s a bit of it’s history:
“The name means the agile rabbit, or Gill’s rabbit. It comes from the commercial ensign painted by the artist André Gill in the 1870’s showing a rabbit skipping out of a frying pan. The rabbit carries a bottle of wine, and is wearing a red neckerchief and sash. Because the rabbit (lapin) was painted by Gill, the sign – which quickly became famous in Montmartre – came to be known as the Lapin à Gill (Gill’s Rabbit). By repetition this became Lapin Agile (Agile Rabbit), this latter name stuck.”
Image by the artist André Gill
“In 1903 Frédéric Gérard known as Frédé became landlord of the property that would become Au Lapin Agile. Frédé was well known in Montmartre where he would go round the streets selling fish carried by his donkey. Frédé’s crow, goat, monkey or his pet white mice would sometimes also make an appearance at the cabaret.”
“He also had another café called the Zut where Picasso was a regular, so Picasso came to the Lapin Agile too. Frédé was musical and easy going. Just like Lapin à Gill (Gill’s Rabbit) he too wore a bandanna around his neck and sometimes on his head. We can catch a glimpse of Frédé (wearing clogs), in Picasso’s painting Au Lapin Agile, painted in 1905 and hung in the cabaret. The work can just be made out to the left of the sculpture of the Christ figure in the attached photograph.” (The photograph shows him singing and playing his guitar as an attentive bohemian audience looks on.)

And yes, this is the place that inspired the writer/performer/musician Steve Martin in 1993 to write the play Picasso at the Lapin Agile. The play features the characters of Albert Einstein and Pablo Picasso, who meet at the Lapin Agile in in Montmartre in 1904. In the play, at the Lapin Agile, they have a lengthy debate about the value of genius and talent.
On a beautiful night in October, friends traveled from London and Ireland and Montreal to join us in Paris, and we were a chatty bunch, out on the town. So we gathered our group together, and headed off to what was billed as an authentic Paris cabaret.
We arrived, somewhat early, I realize now; and we loitered around the closed front doors, as the singers appeared, banged on the doors with vigorous knocking, and were let inside. Eventually, the doors opened and we were escorted upstairs, to a large open room with square tables, an assortment of chairs, and a piano that was stacked with sheet music. We ordered drinks, and watched as more and more people crowded into every available seat, the noise and laughter creating its own kind of music.
Once the room was very full, the lights changed, and a quietly elegant musician sat down at the piano, which was right next to us. Then several singers appeared. They all sat down at a large table in the center of the room; nodded at one another and the music began. They started singing together, with the pianist playing such incredible melodies, without looking at sheet music, but referencing a play list that was announced with a nod, or a pointed finger at one of the singers. They sang drinking songs, and duets, and beautiful solo melodies.
And it was fabulous. It was unexpected. And also crowded and emotional and intimate. The crowd seemed to know every song, and would, on command, join in. Our friend Jennifer speaks fluent French, and sang along with such spirit, that it seemed she had been there before. My sister Susan knows and speaks French, and she could nod and comprehend the nuance of the songs and lyrics. I, other hand, could only marvel at the expression and nuance of the language, gauging my reaction on what was meant by the faces of the audience.
And here’s the gift of the evening – the faces of the audience: uninhibited, engaged, positively charged for hearing and enjoying the music. It was such a committed crowd to the singing – you saw the nods and then the laughter, and the anticipation of knowing what comes next. You could feel the transmission of the emotions and the receipt and acknowledgement of the audience – and it seemed so much like gospel in a church. The call and response. The encouragement and acknowledgement, all done with such enjoyment and connection. I haven’t seen an audience this energized and connected in a long time. It spoke of community and history and shared perspective.

There was also the performance of a man, who was introduced as a 93 year old singer, who sang several songs, and the crowd LOVED him. And wanted more. I couldn’t help but think of our American idea of youthful charisma on stage, and the contrast with this venerated gentleman.

We left at 11:00pm, as we had an early morning the next day, and the cabaret was going on strong when we left – our seats were immediately claimed by the crowd.
But I left with the memory of the faces in the audience. The singers who could create such magic with their songs and such exquisite vulnerability with the audience.
If you ever have the chance to go to Paris, and you’re looking for a conduit to the real night life, consider this encouragement to visit Au Lapin Agile. I hope you have the kind of evening we experienced.
























